Watch This Magazine has analyzed the watch collections to find out what the different brands will present at the biggest watch fair of the year – Baselworld in Switzerland at the end of March. We choose to concentrate on the most complicated watches, those aimed at sports, and those from fashion-oriented brands.
Text: Britta Rossander
Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 in white gold or rose gold is designed in honor of the brand’s founder Abraham Louis Breguet. The model’s movement construction is mounted on a plate and visible through the glass. The mechanical movement is exceptionally complicated, with self-winding and a 50-hour power reserve.
Villeret Grande Date in red gold. This is the first time in the Villeret collection that Blancpain introduces a model with Big Date. The movement Caliber Blancpain 6950 is mechanic and self-winding. The case is 40 mm in diameter and waterproof to 30 meters.
The Turbine Skeleton REF. A3038/1A model is a concentrate of over 200 years of amazing watchmaking combined with a strong spirit of innovation. Perrelet’s iconic model Turbine has received a complete makeover to house a skeletoned movement that in this case is automatic. The rose gold case has some stainless steel parts that have been PVD treated in black.
Inaccessible Tourbillon Répétition Minute in platinum is a flying tourbillon combined with a unique minute repeater. Platinum is a material rarely used for a complication like minute repeater because the metal is known to not convey sound very well. But Franc Vila has solved the problem by combining alloys of varying density. The movement has a tourbillon at six o’clock, has a 90-hour power reserve and the case is waterproof to 100 meters. Each watch in the series is unique.
Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5-Days Indicator in titanium or 18 carat gold. More watchmaking, more knowledge, more innovation, and like the manufacturer says “more fusion”. Hublot presents the first model with a tourbillon in the new generation’s Big Bang range with a skeletoned movement. The power reserve indicator is located for maximum visibility. The model has sapphire glass on both sides of the case and is waterproof to 30 meters.
Répetition Minutes Hannibal Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts in platinum. Ulysse Nardin gives new life to an old story by describing Hannibal’s march across the Pyrenees and the Alps with elephants three centuries before Christ. The whole scene is depicted on the face, which is made out of granite from the Alps. The animated figures move along with the minutes and hours. At six o’clock is a tourbillon. The model will be produced in a series of 30 units.
Skull Green Eye in titanium. The model asks you to look into its eyes where the time stares back at you. The right eye grows gradually darker as the 65 hours of power reserve are running low, in the left eye is a continually rotating second dial. HYT chooses not to display minutes, to concentrate entirely on the floating hours that flow along a capillary in fluid form in the shape of a cranium. The case is 51 mm in diameter and the model will be produced in a limited series of 50 watches.
Academy Georges Favre-Jacot in rose gold is a model developed for the 150th anniversary of the brand’s birth. Zenith starts their countdown from 1865 when watchmaker Favre-Jacot opened his business. The movement is an El Primero with power reserve displays at six o’clock and three-thirty. The second display is located between seven and eight o’clock, and between eleven and twelve is an indicator that shows how the power is transmitted by chain. The model will be produced in a limited series of 150.
Transocean Chronograph 1915 in steel with steel wristband. Back when chronographs had only one push-button in the crown, Breitling introduced a model with a button at two o’clock in 1915 to make it easier to maneuver the function. To celebrate the 100th anniversary, the same model is re-introduced in an upgraded version limited to 1,915 watches. The case has a 43 mm diameter and has anti-reflex sapphire glass on both sides of the case.
Happy Sport Medium Automatic TwoTone. It was back in 1993 that Caroline Scheufele designed one of the most appreciated ladies’ watches of later years. With its famous moving diamonds that dance across the face when the wearer moves her wrist, the Happy Sport has turned into a designer icon. Through the years, the model has been produced in around ten different versions, and last year, the first version with an automatic movement was introduced. This year, bicolore debuts on the Happy Sport’s arena. The new model is made in steel and rose gold and the movement has a 42-hour power reserve and is decorated with the Côtes de Genève.
Longines Conquest Classic Moonphase in rose gold is a watch with almost two centuries of watchmaking tradition inside the case, a new chronograph that displays the phases of the moon. The movement is automatic and has a 48-hour power reserve. The functions are hours, minutes, seconds, 24-hour display, chronograph, moon phase, day, date and month.
Carrera Calibre 18 Krono in steel with leather wristband. TAG Heuer has used the inspiration from their own icon – the first chronograph specially designed for race drivers that Jack Heuer developed in the 1960’s. The model has a spherical sapphire glass like the original, and a telemetric scale on the inner bezel. The movement is automatic and the case measures 39 mm in diameter.
T-Touch Expert Solar in titanium with advanced technology and innovative details like a compass on the bezel ring and Super-LumiNova® on the minute hand, making both time and direction easy to read in the dark. The 20 touch functions are great for adventurers, just like the leather wristband with Velcro. Quartz with battery charge indicator. The functions are hours, minutes, eternity calendar displaying day and week, two alarms, two time zones, weather with relative and absolute air pressure, altimeter, chronograph with lap times, logbook, compass, timer and regatta countdown. Diameters from 43 to 48 mm, waterproof to 100 meters.
Swiss Army I.N.O.X. Right in time for their 130th anniversary, Victorinox introduces the Inox model that’s a miracle of sturdy quality. It will survive a ten-meter fall onto concrete, it can handle a washing machine, and you can even drive over it with a 64-ton tank in case you happen to have one. This year it comes in the trademark Victorinox fire engine red. The model has a detachable “bumper” covering the case to be able to handle even more punishment if necessary. The watch has a quartz movement, the case measures 43 mm and it’s waterproof to 200 meters.
The HyperChrome Plasma Diamonds is a refined model with 56 diamonds on its rose gold bezel ring. The movement is automatic and has a 38-hour power reserve. Besides gold, the watch is of course made out of ceramica – a material connected to Rado since many years.
The model Gucci Dive was originally launched in 2013, now the brand expands the collection with eight new quartz versions. The model is waterproof to 200 meters and the sizes are 32, 40 or 45 mm in diameter.
Startimer Pilot Chrono Grande Date in steel. Black face inspired by the brand’s pilot watches of the 1970’s. The hour and minute hands are reinforced with Superluminova and the chronograph’s second hand wears Alpina’s classical symbol, the red triangle. Metal wristbands are also available. Quartz movement with 48 months of battery life. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph. Waterproof to 100 meters.
The Britain Icon Check for women in rose gold. The iconic grid pattern is presented here in a new interpretation with gold and diamonds. The model is produced to order. The movement is automatic with a 44-hour power reserve, the face is mother-of-pearl and the diamonds are patterned in a shape designed in the 1920’s. Alligator wristband.
The Automatic Ladies model wears the brand’s elegant design philosophy in a concentrated form. The movement is automatic and the case is plated with a rose gold-toned double. The Art Deco-inspired design has 82 diamonds along the sides of the case. The face is mother-of-pearl and in the crown is a cabochon cut smoky quartz.
The Alliance Lady model is a watch with clean lines and a timeless elegance. Case and wristband are both made of brushed steel, the face is mother-of-pearl and comes in four colors: white, beige, anthracite gray and blue. A quartz movement ticks away inside the case, and the date display is located at three o’clock.